
Just beyond the monastery, the feast of Saint Sebastian is celebrated.
Picture taken in Vagamon, one and a half kilometres from Kurisumala

Just beyond the monastery, the feast of Saint Sebastian is celebrated.
Picture taken in Vagamon, one and a half kilometres from Kurisumala

Parasoled.
Men sit and stand on festal elephants during a temple celebration in Fort Cochin.

A drummer in our local temple.
Picture taken in Fort Cochin

A Mattancherry mural.
Picture shows one of the many street artworks featuring in the Cochin Biennale.

Not a Hindu celebration,
but a Christian festival.

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Picture of St Jude’s chapel taken in Pattalam, Fort Cochin

A procession of crosses emerges from the smoke and explosive percussion of festal firecrackers.
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Picture taken outside Santa Cruz Basilica, Fort Cochin

Women bear their parish festal parasols.
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Picture taken in the churchyard of Santa Cruz Basilica, Fort Cochin

Boys hitch a ride on the back of a Ganpati festival float.
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Picture taken in Kannur, Kerala

We left the golden beauty of the beach only to wander into a twilight festival:
A party of young Hindu faithful were celebrating the festival of Ganapati.
Percussive rhythms should never be underestimated:
Their power to evoke passions crosses all cultural boundaries:
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Picture taken in Kannur, Kerala

As I took breakfast this morning Dalila, my wonderful cook, and Anu, my ever-cheerful houseboy, sat in the kitchen, separating flower petals.
We are now in the midst of Onam – Kerala’s biggest festival – a time celebrated by everyone: Hindus, Muslims and Christians alike.
Part of Onam’s tradition is the making of a “pookalam”: a small carpet of flower petals to welcome the return of a semi-mythical Kerala king whose reign, much like England’s King Arthur, was a time of peace, justice and chivalry.
Once they had taken breakfast Anu, with the help of Stefan – Dalila’s youngest son – spent the rest of the morning creating an Onam pookalam in our hall.

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Transporting festival paraphernalia to and from the temple.

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Picture taken in Fort Cochin

Following Sunday’s café breakfast, we rode straight into a boisterous but very good-natured Hindu procession heading for the temple.
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Picture taken in Palace Road, part of Fort Cochin’s ”Brahmin colony”.

Yesterday saw Anu struggling with the laces of his new shoes,

Then waiting for food with our driver,

And guests.

Today heard us musically welcomed to Trivandrum,
for three days of books, authors and poets:
The 2011 Hay Festival in Kerala
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Pictures taken from my front yard, in a roadside restaurant, and in the Kanakakunnu Palace Conference venue, Trivandrum.

This festival included elephants, each bearing three or four young men.

The boys are not mahouts, they are performers. Their role is almost that of cheerleaders.
They hold aloft the brightly coloured silk parasols.

From atop the elephants, they display decorated white woollen fleeces and peacock feathers in a carefully choreographed routine, which adds further drama to the musical crescendos.

But as the small orchestra quietens

The boys slip into laughter, conversation or their own private thoughts.
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As for the mahouts,

They keep a lower profile.
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I chance upon another festival.

This time the celebration is Hindu, with a full contingent of brass players.

Their lungs are strong,
Their embouchure, impressive!
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Or possibly…
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This weekend, Hindus all across the world celebrated Holi.

Although in Kerala Holi is a relatively low-key event, packets of brightly coloured powders were on sale along the roadside.
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But I had my own celebration.
My cousin from the USA was stopping over
And she came bearing the very best sort of gifts:

Cheeses!
A deliciously mature Oregon cheddar,
Canadian Brie
And, just for Holi, a rich-looking, blue cheese.
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The first picture in this post depicts Radha celebrating Holi, Kangra, India. Date: c. 1788. Source: Victoria Albert Museum, London. In India this image is held in the public domain.
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Every festival in India is a feast for all the senses.
And in Kerala, every feast finishes with paysam.
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Vast cauldrons and trays of the dessert are prepared.

In Kannamaly the church hall is used for its storage.
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This paysam will be given as part of the free meal but can also be purchased

As a “take-away”
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Preparations for the feast of St Joseph also involve food:

Quite a lot of food.

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Vegetarian curries and rice will be prepared in almost industrial quantities

To feed people of all faiths and denominations.
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Today is the Feast of St Joseph.
Late on Thursday evening, a friend took me on his motorbike to St Anthony’s Church, Kannamaly – a quiet semi-rural backwater of Cochin -

Where preparations for the annual festival involve the entire community.

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A time of preparation, quiet meditation and devotion.

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With the procession having reached its destination and the musicians refreshed,
it is time for a magnificently choreographed finale.
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“It’s the finale. It’s the last impression. A bad dessert can ruin the meal!” Anne McManus
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