"Wading neck deep in a swamp, your revolver is neither use nor ornament until you have had time to clean it" Mary H. Kingsley (1897)

Posts tagged “Nelliampathi

High Tea


One of the delights of our recent trip to Nelliampathi was visiting the local tea plantations. They are a sensual delight.

Perhaps the colour is due to the tea bushes themselves, for constant plucking keeps their growing tips always young and fresh.

Maybe it is the altitude required for tea cultivation.

Possibly, the effect is a combination of both factors.

But the sheer intensity of the green shrubs against clear blue skies is almost breath-taking.


Left wild, tea bushes will grow to a height of well over 10 metres (more than 30 ft.), but for leaf-harvesting they are pruned to less than 1.5 metres (5 ft.)

Tall slender trees are planted alongside these close-cropped tea bushes. Their leaves and branches provide shade, while the roots help protect thin mountain soil from monsoon erosion.

There is only one species of tea-plant:

Camellia sinensis.

It was initially native only to China.

All teas are made from its varieties and cultivars.


When the drink arrived in Europe, it became a sensation.

In time, the East India Company set up tea plantations to feed this habit and several different accounts of the Indian tea industry’s origins have emerged.

While the British were desperate to drink this stimulating new infusion, the Chinese had no interest in trading tea for the proffered opium or English wool and would only accept silver for its purchase.

Perfidious Albion had only meagre reserves of silver. Their solution was to steal the plants.

Once smuggled out of China, tea was soon grown in the hill country of India by the British colonists.

Combined with sugar, grown with slave-labour from the West Indies, tea became the defining drink of Britain and its Empire.


For more information on the early politics of Indian tea cultivation, I commend Amitav Ghosh‘s beautifully written “The Sea Of Poppies“. It is the first novel in a projected trilogy, set just before the First Opium War.

The book gives fascinating insights into the interplay of slave trade, the devastation wreaked on Indian agriculture by the East India Company’s fostering a switch from food to opium production and British demands that China buy this opium.


“Tea tempers the spirit and harmonizes the mind; dispels lassitude and relieves fatigue, awakens thought and prevents drowsiness”

From “The Classic of Tea” by  Lu Yu,  The Sage of Tea, Chinese Artist and horticulturist. (733 – 804)


The Day-Trip


Since January we have had a fairly constant stream of guests staying.

I suspect my regular cast enjoy the excitement.  Taking care of “Sir” must, at times, seem relatively humdrum.

They have always been cheerful

But they have worked hard.


Yesterday, as a small token of thanks, I took them away for the day:

A “works-outing” to Nelliampathi.


An SUV was hired to transport us.

We were a party of eight, plus driver:

Shaji, Dalila and their two sons; Anu; Robin and his nephew; and myself.

The destination had been Robin’s idea

And he carried a list of suitable eating places.

Setting out shortly after dawn, we broke our journey for breakfast, then continued until reaching the Pothundi Dam and its gardens.

The day was already quite warm.

We stopped for tender-coconut water before reaching the relative cool of Nelliampathi Hills’ tea plantations.

Here, we took a walk

Before lunch.

Then a stroll through the forest trail and across ancient lava flows brought us to the dam again, this time, thousands of feet beneath us.

Finally, the journey home.


Our driver had been safe and friendly.

The car held its own along the often challenging roads.

The only mishap: a short-lived episode of travel sickness in the youngest member of our party.

By now conversation had quietened, our legs were tired and the children were sleeping.

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It was a splendid day, full of laughter and gentle excitement.

Looking back, it seems already a dream…